Discover the benefits of crate training and how it satisfies your dog’s natural instinct for a den-like space. Learn how to choose the right crate, introduce it to your dog, and ensure a happy, stress-free environment.

Crate training evokes mixed feelings for pet parents. It looks confining to some, but remember, dogs evolved in a den environment. After long days of hunting and water seeking with their mother and litter mates, dogs in the wild will rest in their den. These dug-out dwellings provide privacy, a place to sleep, relax, and groom while still being able to hear, see, and smell their surroundings. Here, puppies learn to eliminate outside the den to keep it clean.
Read on to learn how to use crating to help shape your dog’s behavior.
The first step to successful crate training is understanding dogs’ drive to feel secure in a den-like structure. This article explains why many dog lovers crate their dogs for potty training, safety, and while traveling. I’ll guide you in choosing the right crate and helping your dog love it.
Understanding Crate Training: Fulfilling Your Dog’s Natural Den Instinct
Why should you crate?
By nature, dogs are den animals, hardwired to seek out small, cozy spaces for safety. Dogs in the wild, like wolves and coyotes, will dig a shallow hole to hide and rest in. If they can’t dig, they’ll often find an old, unused den, hollow log, pile of brush, or a cave. Here, they can be aware of their surroundings without being seen.
Numerous pet care and animal behavior experts have debunked the idea that crating harms a dog or puppy. These experts agree that crate training benefits far outweigh any drawbacks. Crate training introduces a natural and comfy space for a dog, to keep her safe and happy.

Crate Training Benefits
Crates Offer Safety, Especially for Puppies
- A crate keeps pets safe from many dangers in your home. Think about toxic cleaning supplies, your kids’ Halloween candy, and the antifreeze on your garage floor. Puppies – and even adult dogs – are curious and will taste anything;
- Crating is invaluable for puppies still learning the rules. The crate safely contains puppy, giving him a break – while you get a break from watching him;
- If your older dog needs help eliminating some less-than-ideal behaviors, a crate can help;
- Providing a natural den environment, it offers your dog a secure, personal space to chill out; this helps reduce anxiety and adds peace;
- In his crate, your dog can have some privacy. He can escape kids, other dogs, and maybe even that crazy cat;
- Without a crate, many dogs naturally seek small spaces like closets, underneath tables, or a secluded corner for a quiet break.
Crating Increases Safety When Traveling
For car travel, a crate contains your dog, adding to his and your safety:
- Dog can’t disturb the driver or block the driver’s view;
- Safer for your dog and your family: in the crate, he’s less likely to be tossed around, possibly on top of your passengers, or out of the vehicle in an accident;
- If Fido is a frequent flier, he’ll need a crate that meets airline standards. Most airlines that accept pets in cargo have size, weight, and material requirements. Always check with your airline to ensure your crate will pass muster. For example, some airlines require the crate to have an attached water dish, even if you won’t use it.
Choosing the Right Dog Crate
There are several aspects to consider when finding the perfect crate. This dwelling will be your dog’s safe zone and happy place. Some things to consider:
- It should provide enough room for Fido to stand up, turn around, and lie down naturally;
- Too little room to stretch out is cruel, and may ensure Fido doesn’t come to love it;
- Too much room is dangerous, especially during turbulence, whether in your car or on a plane; it can also lead to puppy eliminating in a far corner;
- It should be made of rugged, durable plastic or metal, with a metal door. It should be hard-sided and leak-proof. Fabric or collapsible crates may work at home but aren’t ideal for the car;
- It should have a secure but uncomplicated lock. Some airlines require metal bolts or cable ties to prevent opening;
- Some crates have a removable bottom tray for easy cleaning;
- A crate with handles makes for easier lifting; (I saw a brilliant person with a crate on wheels at Heathrow Airport recently, but she may have built it herself);
- It must have good ventilation on at least two sides, sometimes three. Airlines usually have specific requirements;
- The International Air Transport Association (IATA) has general guidelines for pet crates. For example, collapsible crates aren’t permitted in airline cargo holds;
- If your puppy will be growing into a large dog, get a crate with a sliding divider so you can keep her space smaller when she’s small and expand it as she grows.
How to Begin Crate Training
The Importance of Positive Reinforcement
Positive reinforcement is rewarding the behavior you want to see repeated. You can use treats, verbal praise, or affection. Making your dog’s crate a positive place from the start will make her more inclined to use it.
She’ll be happier in it when you need her out of the way and at night when you need her to sleep.
Positive reinforcement works with any dog at any age, while strengthening the bond between you.
Make It Fun
- Play a game: Toss a treat toward the back of the crate so she can hear it. Most likely, she’ll go search for it and, once inside, praise her.
- Treat her only when inside, inserting the treat toward the back of the crate so she doesn’t dash back out. When she exits the crate, ignore her.
- If she’s a door-dasher, treat her for staying inside instead of rushing out. Gradually open the door further and further while treating her in the back of the crate so she stays. You’re teaching her:
- There’s no real reward when she exits;
- There are rewards for paying attention to you and your actions, while staying put and having patience.
Make It Comfy
- A thick, washable blanket or pad, some chew toys, and even a piece of your clothing can make it feel like home;
- It should have a quiet, “den-like” appeal and feel cozy. Sometimes, a blanket over the top to muffle or block noise will soothe a barky or nervous dog. Note: don’t cover the entire crate; always be sure ventilation is good and she doesn’t feel too cut off from you.
Make It Gradual
- Slowly increase her time inside while you’re making dinner or working from home;
- Experiment with leaving the door open while she’s inside and sometimes closing it;
- An occasional raw meaty bone*, bully stick or little treat while inside creates a positive association.
(see my blog post on choosing the correct raw, meaty bone for your dog *****)
Positive Reinforcement Works Both Ways
Beware: positive reinforcement is everywhere!
Puppy is often rewarded with his own kind of positive reinforcement—not always the most helpful kind. Say that whenever he can, your adorable 5-month-old puppy chews on random items or digs in the yard. He’s got tons of energy and little to do. The sneakers and slippers he finds around the house smell like his favorite people! And the dog door lets him go out whenever he wants.
Let’s look at puppy behavior, which in this case is problem chewing.
- Cause: Chewing (to relieve itchy gums, satisfy chew drive)
- Effects:
- Pleasure;
- Relief from itchy gums;
- Relief from boredom;
- Instant dopamine hit.
So you put all the shoes out of reach.
Then he starts to dig.
Digging diffuses his energy and satisfies his digging drive. The digging itself reinforces the pleasure it brings him. Like chewing, it’s a perfect cause-and-effect loop.
- Cause: digging (to relieve boredom, anxiety, etc.)
- Effect:
- Pleasure;
- Satisfies his activity, hunting, den, and digging drive;
- Relieves his boredom and anxiety;
- Gives him an instant dopamine hit.
Don’t you wish you were a puppy?
But I digress.
Say you’re working on discouraging his digging, but the dog door allows him to go outside at will.
And, say you have an important Zoom meeting for work tomorrow, but he barks whenever you’re on Zoom. (Because he’s smart and can’t figure out who you’re talking to!)
Don’t stick him in the garage, where he may find that pool of sweet-tasting antifreeze or the 24-pack of Charmin from Costco.
Make a plan.
YOU are the one with opposable thumbs, a Roth IRA, and a ginormous human brain, allowing you to teach your puppy what you want him to learn.
- Take him out to potty and to get some physical exercise. Toss a ball for ten minutes. Your goal is to get his energy – and poop – out before your meeting when you need a quiet, relaxed puppy.
- Put a nice bully stick or chew toy toward the back of his crate so he enters willingly. Then, get on that Zoom meeting with confidence!
This is why crating for puppies is invaluable. He’ll have fewer chances to repeat unwanted behaviors. Remember, some behaviors he’s driven to do, but you must curb them so he can live with you peacefully.
Remember, every potty accident he has reinforces the likelihood it’ll happen again, leading to more accidents. Save yourself the time and frustration — and more importantly, save him the confusion — by limiting his ability to make these mistakes in the first place.
Putting in the effort and time to make sure he’s doing the right thing will pay off exponentially later.
Don’t Crate for Punishment
Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall states, “Animals trained with aversive methods showed elevated stress hormone levels compared to those trained under positive reinforcement.”
- This stress can cause behavioral issues. It can also lead to your dog fearing you or her trainer – not a good thing. Using the crate as a punishment dilutes the trust and comfort your dog associates with you and this space. Her crate should feel like her own little piece of doggie heaven;
- Additionally, don’t crate her only when you leave the house or go to bed. She may come to associate it with you being gone – that is, negatively;
- Crate her often when you’re home so she can see and feel your presence. This can be as simple as keeping her crate near you while you work;
- Praise her when she enters her crate, and speak kindly when she’s resting there;
- You’ll soon find her in her crate when she needs a break or just because.
Using the Crate to Teach Better Behavior
Studies show that keeping your dog in confined spaces like a crate can significantly reduce destructive behavior in dogs.
This makes sense, since the dog can’t dig, claw, or get access to things she could chew on or destroy.
It also makes sense because it is a peaceful, den-like place of her own. Thus, it curtails bad habits and limits her in-crate activities to pleasures that you allow her, like chewing on her toy or bone or curling up for a good nap in her crate.
Exceptions:
Some trainers use ‘Time-out’ in the crate as a short period away from other family members or pets to discourage bad behavior. Veterinary behaviorists like Dr. Lore Haug recommend short ‘time-outs’ in the crate as a practical mild consequence for behaviors like excessive barking or chewing.
I’ve seen this work, but please use it thoughtfully, as dogs (especially puppies) have difficulty understanding cause and effect.
Your Dog and the Time-Space Continuum
It’s hard for dogs to associate a particular behavior with the reason they’re being punished. This is especially true if any length of time has passed between the behavior and the punishment — even 30 seconds. Unless you can create a firm association between a particular behavior and a negative consequence, a dog of any age can end up confused and possibly afraid — never a good thing.
Most dog trainers today only use positive reinforcement to guide a dog’s behavior. The more consistently you use it, the quicker your dog will learn what to do, the stronger your bond will become, and the more secure and well-adjusted she’ll be.
Time in Crate: How Long is Too Long?!
Crating should occur in temporary spurts, with the longest time being at night when everyone is sleeping. Puppies under six months should not be crated for more than 3–4 hours, while adult dogs should not exceed 8 hours in the crate. This means that when Puppy wakes you up at 3 am whining to go out, you should quietly take her outside, and then put her back into the crate with quiet — not excited — praise. This helps discourage the habit of nighttime elimination, while still ensuring she’s successful with her pottying.
Excessive crating can cause anxiety and stress – which is counterproductive to the training process. You want your pup to return to her crate for quiet time happily.
Crating for Potty Training
Crates are ideal for potty training, whether you have a puppy or an older, rehomed dog who’s having accidents in the house. Being confined after a meal (before her elimination window) will help her hold it until you let her out.
Remember: It’s your responsibility to notice when she shows signs of having to go potty, and to get her outside.
Choosing the correct size crate for your puppy dog is critical. Whether wire, plastic, or fabric, it should be spacious enough for her to move around in, but not too large that she’s tempted to pee or poop in it.
Dogs instinctively won’t eliminate in their den if it’s small enough. However, puppies sometimes soil the bedding in their crate and then push it into the corner. If your pup does this, you may want to get rid of the bedding until she understands that she shouldn’t eliminate anywhere in her crate.

Crate Location
The location of your dog’s crate is as essential as the type of crate you buy. While the crate should offer some alone time, it shouldn’t isolate him.
- Put it in a corner of your office or kitchen, where she can still see and hear your activities. If she’s young, keep the crate nearby so you can observe her signs that she’s ready to go potty.
- If you can afford it, have a daytime crate downstairs and a nighttime crate in your bedroom. This helps puppies who feel lonely or have separation anxiety during the long nights.
Pro tip: When You Can’t Use the Crate
In a pinch – say you’re working at the office and don’t want to haul her crate into the car – keep puppy on a leash attached to your waist or belt loop. This way, you can’t miss signs she has to go, and she’s safe from making mischief.
If she’s having accidents in her crate:
- Keep her crate nearby so you can watch for signs she has to potty;
- Learn the signs: Signs of needing to go include circling, sniffing, and scratching the ground;
- Set regular meal times so you can time her digestion;
- Time her digestion to determine how long it takes her to digest her meal before pottying. Depending on age and size, puppies and dogs can take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour to digest a meal;
- Record the time it took from digestion to elimination, and use it as a reference. If you do this well for a few days, it’ll become automatic for both of you quickly. Note: Puppy’s digestion time will change as she physically matures and her appetite increases;
- Don’t feed on demand (keeping a bowl of food out all day). On-demand feeding makes it impossible to understand her digestion’s timing, because you don’t know when she’s eaten last;
- Make the crate smaller: this is why a crate with a divider is ideal;
- Your goal is to get her outside BEFORE she needs to eliminate. This may mean standing around in the cold long before she poops or pees. Your patience will pay off – each time she eliminates where she should, you’re one step closer to success.
What to do when your pup has an accident in the house or crate
It happens.
- Immediate correction: If you catch her in the act, interrupt her, say “no” (without scolding) and get her outside immediately. And yes, sometimes there will be a trail of piddle – it’s one of the joys of dog parenthood!
- Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic pet stain cleaner. You must remove odors that could attract your fur babe back to the same spot.
- Consult a pro: persistent issues may require chatting with a dog trainer, perusing YouTube, or consulting your vet to rule out medical problems.
Your dog wants to please you, but it’s your responsibility to teach him how to be successful. Remember: every accident in the house or crate is practice, or reinforcement, in doing the wrong thing. This is why you or your trainer must be watchful, consistent, and patient until Puppy gets it.
Other Training Aids
There are a multitude of training aids available to help with getting your pup off on the right foot, er, paw. Some include:
- Dividers: a crate with a divider lets you adjust the crate’s size as your puppy grows, keeping her from using one end to eliminate in;
- A crate with a removable bottom makes cleanup easier;
- Absorbent mats: these make cleanup easier, but I don’t recommend them: it may confuse your dog to sometimes be allowed to eliminate indoors;
- Positive reinforcement: reward your dog immediately after she eliminates outside, using high-value treats and/or lavish praise;
- Clicker training: some trainers, like Karen Pryor, a pioneer in the field, recommend using a clicker to mark the exact moment of correct behavior, followed by a treat. This can sharpen the dog’s learning curve.
Observe, Document, and Learn
There’s a lot more to crate training a dog than you thought, but you can do this!To help, here are some reminders, tips, and tricks to keep your training days smooth:
- Keep a detailed log of feeding times, potty times, and accidents. Patterns will emerge over a week or two to give you a picture of your dog’s natural rhythms;
- Use a timer to establish an accurate feeding and potty schedule. For instance, set a timer for 30 minutes after puppy eats, then take her outside when it goes off;
- Signal training: observe your pup’s behavior closely to prevent accidents.
- Probiotics: Veterinarian nutritionists agree that probiotics help with digestion, potentially making bowel movements more predictable;
- Type of food: Wet food usually causes softer stools and more frequent elimination, while dry kibble usually has the opposite effect;
- Some dogs feel more secure when their crate is covered, creating a “den-like” environment. Then again, another dog may feel too enclosed: observe her reaction and adjust accordingly;
- Be flexible but consistent. Patience and understanding are your greatest allies.
Exceptional Cases: Rehomed Dogs
Rehomed dogs can be full of surprises. They may not have been trained to eliminate in certain areas or on any particular schedule. I’ve a friend whose rescued chihuahua was raised in a car and still has no idea where to eliminate. She’s a sweet dog and a work in progress. You must be sensitive to a dog’s unique behavioral challenges.
Breeds and Temperaments
Different breeds have different temperaments, so they may require different training methods. Working breeds often adapt well to crate training because they see the crate as one of their “jobs.” Toy breeds may require more coaxing and reassurance.
Troubleshooting
So, you’ve followed all the training and tips to crate your dog successfully, but you’re still having hiccups. Here are some additional steps to consider:
- Excessive barking or whining: If she fusses in the crate, it might be due to overexcitement or anxiety. Repeating a simple “quiet” command might suffice, or give her a meaty bone to give her something to do. Consider how much time you ask her to spend daily in the crate. It may be too long for her. For persistent cases, check out YouTube or talk to Shelley at JHPS;
- If she’s hesitant to enter the crate, go back to basics with high-value treats, a chew toy, etc., to create a positive association. Maybe there’s a special treat she only gets when she’s inside the crate;
- Leave the crate door open when she’s not in it; she’ll be more likely to enter on her own.
You did it!
Crate training is multifaceted and requires time, patience, and repetition. It calls for careful observation and understanding of your dog’s likes and dislikes. With an attentive, kind attitude, your dog’s crate can become her favorite place and free you from considerable worry. With all the household hazards she could get into, crating your dog can be a lifesaver.
****************see my post on household hazards for pets here *********




